HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!

HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!

From the Slow Burn League.

Starting out. part VI

 Hello everyone. Did you have a happy holiday? I hope so. Did you get the presents that you wanted? Let me know what it was in the comments section. I got a really nice sweater from my girlfriend, thank you for asking.

  We have a great post planned for you today. Filled with pictures and rants and lectures. Yes this is the seventh fifth part of the starting out series. And it will go on for a some time as we have three models in the starter box to paint. But first....
Its time to introduce to you another member of the Slow Burn League ( a Wednesday night gaming club).

Andrew. He can be a bit shy at times.

  Andrew this is the blog's fan base. Blog fans, this is Andrew. Everyone well acquainted? Good. Lets move on to the meaty bits eh?

  Previously on A brush, a paint and a mini: I showed you the process of applying the base coat to a fully assembled Juggernaut. There were a few hard to reach places and a brass pin that wasn't always as comfortable to work with as we would like. There was a Post 6 and our customary holiday wishes for Christmas. We are also working on fixing the no picture issue with Post 6 by the way. For those of you that read it. Whomever you are...
 On this post/ episode we will cover the Juggernaut's sibling. The Destroyer. We primed the Destroyer in pieces to illustrate the advantages and drawbacks of painting the individual components of the model before assembly. So here is what we are going to work with:

 Exciting isn't it? Makes you want to get started right? Well lets get to it. Get that pot of paint and the brush and do we have the water cups ready? Good. Let's go.

 This time I started with red. I could have started the same way as the Juggernaut and painted the parts that would have gotten a metallic finish with CB but the photographer asked me a question just as I was reaching for a pot of paint and well. I started with red. and as you can see in the picture above I painted a plate that on the Juggernaut was left black. Not to worry, black paint covers over red really well so we continue to paint the parts that we want to paint red.

 A quick recap on the paint. I am using the P3 paints by Privateer Press. These paints take a little getting used to. They don't have as much medium added as filler and so are quite a bargain. I will cover medium, flow release and retarder in a later entry.

 HINT: To make it easier to type this blog late at night. Well actually early in the morning now. I contracted the names of the colors to their initials. For now Coal Black is CB, Thamar black is reffered to as Bk, and Khador Red Base is KRB. (for the motherland!)

 It helps to listen to music while painting. As for the music you should listen to? Well your Computer should have access to what you like and are in the mood for.
In these pictures you can see the Juggernaut. I look at it to make sure that I keep the color scheme consistent. If one thing I have learned about armies, it is this. All armies, be they fantasy or real or sifi, like consistency and uniformity.

The down side of painting a model in pieces is that you are more likely to paint your fingers. While not a bad thing in itself, it does lead to question and answer sessions with loved ones depending on the color of paint used.

If you really want to worry your family. Mix one part blue paint with three parts red, this makes for a realistic blood red color.

And it is nice to have a collection of models that look as if they work together.
As you can see it is a time consuming process to apply the paint in light coats over and over. On the plus side I don't have to worry about touching wet paint on a part. Once I apply a coat on it I set it down and work on another part. You will also notice that I have yet to remove the tape from the contact points. Call me  lazy, call it fore thought. I decided not to remove the tape as I don't want to deal with stray paint going where I will be applying glue. Any places where the tape has covered and kept me from painting will be fixed later in the detailing stage. By the the model will be fully assembled.

 Here is the Bombard. One of the arms of the Destroyer with a near ready KRB coat and some of the metal parts (parts that will be painted with metallic paint) have received a CB treatment.

 The two shoulders. One with KRB and CB and the other with just KRB.

 Now that I am somewhat satisfied with the red base I move on to adding the CB on the pieces. This gives the red paint time to dry and gives me a little break form seeing red.

 After I finish with the CB I will fix any stray red KRB paint strokes with CB and Bk.
I will also make sure to post the pictures of the finished base coat before we star with the next stage.

So by now you have painted on the base coat and are asking yourselves. What is the Major drawback of painting a model in this manner? Well it's not a problem until you have to deal with highlights and shadows. Once you finish the base coat you will have to assemble the model. Which means that you have to be very careful with where you apply glue and also have to deal with the super glue residue. It looks like a fine layer of white dust/powder or paint. You will have to cover that with paint.

And in case I don't manage to post it on time (different time zones).

 HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!!!!!!

PS
Please leave comments for this entry or any other posts. I would like to hear from you.
I want to know how to improve this blog and of course answer any questions you have.

Happy Holidays

Well its the winter holidays and thus all of us at A brush, a paint and a mini will be spending this weekend with family and friends eating dinner, cookies, drinking eggnog and sparkling cider and the like. I hope that you have a safe and happy winter holiday season.

Hey... Its post 6.

It's time for post 6, again.

I am posting this while I patiently await the pictures for the next post to arrive.
In the meantime I am also attempting to get some disclaimers sent to me to make sure that I don't get any cease and desist letters and emails. That is pretty much it for now.
In the next post you will see what painting your Destroyer in pieces is like ( before you have to do it yourselves).
That and more pictures as is standard. And more members of the group, to turn them into celebrities.

And, just because Post 6 doesn't have enough pictures here are a few images pilfered, legally, from the Privateer Press site of upcoming releases. 

 This be the Ragman. I like the way it looks as both sculpt and studio paint remind me of Brian Snoddi's art style. For examples I will reffer you to the Mk 1 Prime and Primal rules books, and some old Magic cards.

And this is the alternate version of Kaya. For those who haven't seen her. I might paint her as well, when she is released on the street.
Well that is it for now.
Really.
I will be posting again when i finish processing the pictures that will be posted.

Starting out. part V

  Hello again. Its time for our, what I prefer to believe to be, regularly scheduled update. Now with an extra 25% spelling and grammar errors.
Previously on A Brush, a Paint and a Mini: I typed at great length the importance of safety when using sharp tools and potentially hazardous chemicals. Yes, primer is a chemical and the solvent in the can is not good for you. I also elaborated a little more on the preparation and cleaning process to get you ready for the can of primer. And then I showed you how I prime my models. Hopefully that was a useful bit of information as it is time to move on to:
Painting!
And that is the subject of today's update. I should mention that this will be a somewhat short one. I have decided to split the whole thing over a number of days. The reasons being that a) I need material for regular updates and thus I don't want to run out of stuff. b) it really does take me hours to select the best images from the pictures that we have taken and then edit them. and c) I like to have eight hours of sleep. I realize that my coffee addiction should come in handy here, but it is nice to wake up at 9:00am. As opposed to clicking the publish button at 10:30am after a 12 hour marathon. So rants aside lets get to painting.

Before we begin lets take a look at what we will need.

First we will need some brushes and two plastic cups. Well instead of cups you can use any container that can hold water. I recommend the plastic cups that you get with your iced coffee beverages from the local cafe. I know you buy at least one or two a day. Just wash them out and fill them with water. Now, you are probably wondering why you will need two cups/ water containers. The answer is simple. You will need one for clean water to dilute your paint with and the other to rinse your brushes in. Simple no? As far as brushes go you will need several sizes. I use two for the beginning stage of my average painting project. I find that sizes 000, 00, 0 and 1 work best. Bear in mind that these are sizes that I find in the US so I am not sure what the standards are for the international community.They should be the same. If you opt for the official P3 brushes or those of any other hobby supplier you will see sizes such as Detail, Small, Medium, Large, and Base. Since there are at least two different sizing standards I will try to limit myself to the key principals involved in painting and also to help you decide which brush is useful when.
Next you will need a paint palette. This is where you will mix, thin and drop off extra paint when you are painting. Paint palettes are made from a variety of materials from ceramic tile to plastic to rice paper ( in the case of wet palettes). You can buy from your local game shop, hobby store or from online store such as thewarstore.com or if you are a little short on cash like me. Use an old piece of plastic packaging like a plastic jar lid etc. or maybe a split card sleeve. The latter being easier to obtain if you have friends that play collectible card games.
And last but not least we will need paint. I prefer the P3 line of paints simply because they are made with a liquid pigment. You can read more about them on Privateerpress.com as well as the interview with Mike McVey on Brushthralls.com. For this project I will use the following three colors: Coal black ( I believe it to be an essential paint for anyone just like black and white.), Thamar Black, and Khador Red, red is the predominant faction color for Khador.

The three colors that will be used for the base coat.

And for added imagery this is what my work area looks like. Just in case you haven't gleaned from previous pictures what the chaos appears to look like.

Its always useful to have something that can hold your brushes for you.

So, lets get our Juggernaut.

Looks promising.

Ever so helpful the red arrows point out where primer has not reached.

Oh no! I t looks like there is some primer missing! Right there where the red arrows are pointing. Its ok. That happens all the time. There are recesses where primer spray has a hard time getting to and it dries up before reaching the surface. In the case of the armor plate above the left arm. Its on the right side of the picture, one of the helpful red arrows is pointing it out. That was where I unintentionally wiped it off with my thumb when i set it down to dry. ( And now you know why having gloves on is a good idea). So how do we deal with it? Well, by opening the black paint pot, dropping a little water on the palette and loading a paint brush with black paint. then you mix the paint on the brush with the water on the palette to thin it down a little bit and then apply it to the model.

After a coat of black paint

For some clarification you can use a brush or an eye dropper to add water to your palette. Up until now it didn't matter which cup/jar you used to get the water to dilute your paint with. Now, however you get to make your arbitrary choice as to which cup (in my case) you use to rinse your brush in. Its a binary choice and one that you would do well to keep track of.  Now then we wait for the paint to dry.

 One little bit of advice: Be sure to have something to hold on to your model by. Like a piece of cork or some other material that you can poke with the brass rod or paperclip that you glued to your model. Acrylic paint isn't toxic, but it's nice not to have to explain the new color you hands have taken on.

And what do you know, it didn't take too long for the paint to dry.










So now that we covered all of the parts of the Juggernaut that needed to be covered in black we move on to colors. I chose to use Coal Black first. purely on a whim. You could start with red if you want as Coal Black will cover it quite well should you stray with the red paint. All the same Coal Black I chose and Coal Black I start with. As it is more of a teal well actually it looks like Prussian Blue, it is an excellent color to use as a base for the brass parts of the Juggernaut [Once you cover it with brass, the parts that you miss look like tarnish and rust, it's also good for shadows]

Since I love this color so much, I decided to use it as base for all of the shiny metal parts.
Truth be told I believe that Coal Black is a quintessential part of any paint collection whether it is of the P3 line.

 And sometimes you will need to pull the model off of its handle to get to those hard to reach places.

 It is important to look and paint the underside of a model. It adds a little bit of extra flavor and dimension to a model. And even though it would be hard to see because of a base, your friends and fellow players will still like the look. It's also a good place to hide mistakes, hehehehe. If you want to try a shadow, that is your place.

Watch out for the pokey bit. It isn't hazardous but it pokes and not in a good way.

Still I hope that you get a good idea as to what i am working on. All of the pistons and components that will be painted with metallic paints get the CB (  short for Coal Black) treatment.
Once we are done with that we move on to the red.

 And so we repeat the same process that we used to thin down and load our brushes with Khador red, as we did with coal black and Thamar black before. Only this time you have a nice picture to look at.

 And we begin to apply it to the Juggernaut. I use a large(ish), large being a relative term, to paint the larger armor plates that will be red. taking care not to paint any parts that I want to be any other color.

 By now you will notice the fairly obvious. Red just doesn't give you a very opaque cover like black does. So the only way to deal with it is to add more coats or it.

 Just be sure to do it slowly and take your time. As you need to give the paint time to dry so as to not move it around and thus end up with rings on your model.

 As you apply successive coats you will notice the streaks left behind bu the brush. Don't worry those will eventually even out. It is for this reason that I like to thin down my paint as multiple thin coats allow for more control of the process and give you a more even and nicer finish.

Not quite ready.

 I try to get all of the armor plates that will be visible as well as the ones that aren't readily seen.

It is always important to look at the entire model. And paint even the back.

So I will leave the Juggernaut to dry for now. I will pick it up later to see if it needs any more coats of red.
In the next post we will tackle the Destroyer, which is currently in pieces. This is being done to ready both models for highlighting and shading as I can do that step for both models in a single post. I hope.

Hey... Its post 6.

And again it's time for post 6.
 This is a bit of a teaser for part V. In part V we will finally get to do some painting. We could have done some painting a while back, but I like to sleep and there are things that I need to do other than blog about miniatures painting. That said, we will actually cover the three models in the starter box in separate entries, as that allows me to expand on the various aspects of painting the three models. I will also touch, and non too briefly, the differences between a robot like the Juggernaut and a human or warrior model like Sorcha (I finally learned how to spell her name). The Destroyer will also present its unique challenges and as such it will get its own stage and spotlight.
Well that is it for now. I am off to take some pictures.

Starting out. part IV

And we are back. The snow has melted. Its raining again. And we are having a normal Pacific North West winter. If you think that 30-39 days of continuous precipitation is normal. For my sanity's sake as well as timely updates. I hope that we get some breaks in the weather. Fun fact: the area where I live was once a part of the largest temperate rain forest in the world..
But you are more interested in this installment of the blog. So here we go.

Previously on 'A brush, a paint and a mini': I typed about not being able to give you a proper update with good pictures. Before that i covered the assembly and posing of what I assume is your very own Juggernaut miniature. And after a long wait here is a nice update with pictures to boot.

And now for the post.
Special thanks to Cat , for agreeing to help with the pictures for the blog. That and all of the questions, the answers to which become the content of this blog. Remember, I am trying to make things easy for the beginners to enjoy the hobby as well as share my experience and tips that I have picked up through out the years. Some of it is useful to even the grizzled and haggard veterans of the table top miniatures hobby. Everyone likes to have a well painted army. Or at least one that looks good.
Here is Cat:

Cat and Denegra,

 She looks a bit different since her encounter with Denni. I can't quite figure out why though.
So then we move on to the meat and tubers portion of the post. And as per the precedent set in blogs past, a brief intro to the tools used along with what are hopefully witty warnings.
As there will be a brief recap on cleaning we will be needing the help of our trusty and dangerous friend the hobby knife:

Did my previous warnings about this tool sink in yet? I am serious, even a dull blade can cause deep cuts. You should always use a sharp blade. This is because an individual is always more careful around sharp pieces of metal and sharp blades cut easily through the material you are working with.

Next we have our trusty Clippers.

Warning!: These are a pinch hazard. That and anything you clip off with them may fly in a random direction at a surprisingly high velocity. Use caution and preferably eye protection. Your eyes will thank you.

Then there are the files. These are, like a hobby knife, the mainstay of a hobby work area's organization chart. very useful for smoothing out mold lines and feeds as well as removing unwanted details. And as I will cover in future posts, shaving/ filing a part down for a better fit.

They may not look like much, but files will save you hours and blades. If Steel cut files aren't doing the job for ya, consider getting some diamond tipped/coated files. They have a coarser cut, but are better at removing a lot of material. If you need a finer cut/ polish, may I suggest a fine grit sand paper in the 200+ range.  There are no known warnings for these tools.... yet.

I call it blu-tack. Its a non-permanent adhesive putty.

.

 And we have another familiar, though not as celebrated friend. The sticky tack. This really is the unsung hero of our hobby. Honest. I have yet to hear any songs about it. Or even read the lyrics of songs, and i have been around people who will sing about anything.

Wow its almost 6am.

And its time to see some new tools. Yay? Today is the first time that I will type about using the Pin Vice. I bet you were wondering when this was going to come up. The Pin Vice is the equivalent to a rock star in the hobby world. A good Pin Vice, it is claimed by some, can make the difference between a good conversion and a bad assembly. I personally find it very useful for some very mundane tasks. And today I will cover one of them.

Now that the Pin vice has been mentioned. I will Bring up the Primer. Probably what you have been waiting for. Primer is important since it adheres to metal and plastic (well good primer does), and it provides a base with the surface area for paint to stick to. The type of primer that I chose is a formula for automotive use. I will explain later. There is much to cover.

Ah almost forgot. Warning!!!: Primer contains some very toxic solvents. Use in a well ventilated area. Preferably outdoors. Spray away from yourself and take breaks between sprays. I suggest wearing a respirator if you can get one. The solvents, and possibly propellant, may cause damage to the following systems: Brain, heart, liver, lungs, kidneys. Do not inhale for the fun of it. Do not eat!

Moving on.

Since we already assembled the Juggernaut I will give you a brief recap using the Destroyer. If you purchased a different starter box. No worries, we have you covered as most of what applies here applies to the other boxes.

In the picture above you can see the red arrows pointing to where the feeds where attached to the parts. removing this leftover material is best done with our trusty Hobby knife. So long as you take care to keep it from removing bits off of you.

Illustrating my point about bloodthirsty knives.

Here the red arrows are kind enough to point to the mold lines and associated flash. Flash is extra material left over from the casting process. This is because, in this case, the plastic is liquid that is either injected into a mold or poured in to a centrifugal mold and sun at a high rpm. either process leads to some of the liquid to leak between the parts of the mold before hardening. The best way to remove it, is by carefully cutting it off with your sharp knife.
After all of that cutting some parts may need a little bit of extra polish. that is where the files come in. just don't press too hard on them. Now you are probably wondering which file is best for the job. To answer that i will have to call your attention to the shapes of the files themselves. Files with broad flat surfaces are best used for flat or convex surfaces. The more rounded files fit better into the convex areas. The thin squarish and round needle files are best for some of the tighter areas where a wider file may not fit. Its a judgment call really. If you need to clean them, just press them into a kneaded chunk of sticky tack.
And Just as we did with the Juggernaut its time to do a bit of posing. This step isn't necessary, but its fun to play around with the poses.
That said, in this post I will be covering the two different methods of priming models. I have used both methodologies and will cover both. First lets chat about them. One method of prepping a model is to clean off all of the flash, scrape off any material that the knife missed with a file. Pose the model and then glue it together. As I may have mentioned before, this is helpful as when you are painting the model you will have a better idea where the shadows and highlights go. The downside is that, where the shadows go its hard for you to reach with a brush (though not impossible) and the same applies for primer. This translates into extra effort on your part.
And since our Juggernaut/ unspecified Warjack of your choice is assembled and ready. Lets prep it for primer. This is a simple process. Well I think it is. First you will need to have either some brass rod or paperclips handy. Then, you will need to take one and push it into a block of sticky tack. This is for safety as I have had way too many things fly around my work area.

Pressing a paper clip into the blu-tack.

Next is time for the clippers. Holding onto the "loose" end of what in my case is a paperclip. I gently squeeze the handles of the clippers until the blades cuts through the metal. the same applies if you are using brass rod. I can't tell you how many times I have seen a length of brass rod shoot across the room barely missing people. Invariably the question arises. How long should the pin be? Well for our purposes about an inch should do. For those of us who grew up on metric: 2.5cm

its always important to get a grip on both sides of the brass rod/paper clip as you are about to cut it

This leaves you with a piece of paper clip/ brass rod in your hand and another sticking out of your sticky tack.

Ok, so in the picture above I have two. We need to get a better picture of the cutting process. So what next? And how does the pin vice fit into this? I am glad that you asked, because its time to get your pin vice. Did you get it? Good. Don't worry this post will be still here if you need to run to your local hobby store to buy one or wait for it to be delivered after ordering it online.
Do you have it now? Good. Next we have to drill a hole in to the foot of the Juggernaut so as to glue the pin to it. We will need to make sure that there is a snug fit and so we have to match the drill bit, yes its a drill bit, to the pin's width like so:

The drill bit should be only slightly wider than the pin you will be using. from a distance they will appear to be the same width/ diameter. Once you have found the right bit for the job secure it in the pin vice and you are ready to drill a hole.

I prefer to drill into the part of the foot that has the most material. Usually this can lead you to drill deep into the leg on some models. It was not the case here, but that's ok as Plastic models are lighter and don't need as much structural support. We need the pin so that we can attach the model to something that will act like a handle during both the application of primer and paint. afterward you can remove the pin. Or use it to attach your model to a custom base. I will cover custom bases in a later tutorial.

Once the hole has been drilled. It is time to insert the pin. Simply take your pin, test fit into the hole and see how far it goes. Once you get a sense of that, take your bottle of super glue and apply a little bit to the part of the pin that will go into the hole. A little bit of super glue goes a long way. A lot, sticks your fingers to the model and possibly the table.

It wasn't that hard, was it? Now that you have the pin glued to the foot, it's time to find a suitable object to act as a handle. Most pro painters advise the use of wine corks. This is mostly as a matter of convenience. Most of them are old enough to buy wine, or beverages that are distributed in glass bottles topped with a cork. The material is soft and spongy, so it is easy to push a pin into it. And yet it can support the weight of even a metal version of our Juggernaut. I should know I have tried it.

Not all of us have bottle corks on hand at all times, however. As one does not tend to keep them for long. no worries. You just need something suitably similar. In my case I used what was once a test mold that I had made out of RTV silicone. You may want to use an eraser that you have no particular use for. Or the core tube from a roll of toilet paper. Please do not throw away good toilet paper to get the core.

This is Sorcha. She is the warcaster that came with the starter box. As her sculpt is fairly straight forward I decided to assemble her before priming. with smaller models it sometimes makes sense to assemble and attach to the base before priming. For her handle I decided to use the cap form an old glue bottle that i had lying around. but first I need some putty to make her stick...

And the sticky tack comes to the rescue. And after a minute of kneading. I push the tack on to the cap.

Now I take Sorcha and press her base onto the cap with the sticky tack sandwiched between them.

Well that seemed easy. And now we prime. Of course you should probably wash your models with hot soapy water and leave them to dry. Drying time takes about 24hrs just to be on the safe side. It may take longer depending on the ambient temperature and humidity. 50-60F should do nicely. So then we can prime? Yes. but first a little prep. I recommend finding a nice and well ventilated place to do this step. Primer fumes are not good for you, and they are a flammable. So you should be away from any open flames or sources of sparks. You will also want to be outside, as this stuff smell s bad and will make you feel ill if you spray it indoors. In other words: Don't inhale the vapors/ fumes. Found a place? Good. Miniatures dry? Excellent.

Made you look. Muahahaha

What's the glove for? I put on a pair of cheap rubber gloves so that i don't have to wash primer from my hands. You don't have to, but after you spend an hour trying to wash primer off of your hands you will see the wisdom of wearing gloves.

Do not try this at home. We used Photoshop.

<==== The WRONG way to use your primer.

That's right. Spray the miniatures.

The Right way to use primer! =======>

So now that you have attached your miniature to something that you can hold, you are ready to spray some primer. A note of warning. Aerosol or spray primer contains some toxic solvents and you would do well to limit your exposure to them. for this reason I apply primer in short bursts. That also serve to give me greater control over how much primer gets applied to a given area of the model.

This is after one or two short sprays of primer. Spraying primer in short burst or sprays will give you more control over how much primer goes on which parts of the model. Doing this will slowly reveal the areas where the spray has a hart time getting to and allows you to adapt accordingly.

The red arrows point to the trouble spots or recesses where the primer spray has yet to get to. Don't worry, and take your time. At this stage, you only need to spray little by little to cover as much of the model as possible.

Here is Sorcha and the Juggernaut. They aren't ready yet, as I will need to give them one more coat just to make sure that hey are fully primed. After that it will take about three days for the primer to cure. longer if it the winter temperatures remain below 40F.
A quick note on the primer that I use. First it is an automotive primer. The brand is Duplicolor by Krylon. this is a US brand and as such I am only aware of where to look for it in the US. I f you want to save yourself some time but are willing to pay a little extra go buy the P3 primer. I can't tell you what the actual formula is or who makes it, but I have been informed by some very reliable sources that it works just as well. I trust my source enough to say that. I will however try a can to see how it compares.
So now lets check on the other method for priming models. The un-assembled way. This is a fairly straight forward method. You clean your pieces just like the juggernaut . Except that instead of assembling it you just cover the contact areas with tape. The contact areas are the parts of the model that will be glued together. Its where you will be applying glue.

TIP!: I once made the mistake of priming plastic models with out covering the contact areas. This resulted in me having to spend hours scraping primer and gummed plastic cement off of those areas so that the new layer of plastic cement could activate and bond the pieces together.

 The above picture illustrates what I mean. Sure you can scrape off the primer with a knife later, but for a little bit of tape now. You can save yourself quite a lot of grief later. Its much easier to peel off tape than to scrape primer.

One major advantage to this method is that you can eliminate most of the primer shadows. Or areas where primer is blocked from reaching, say the torso by the arm. And if you put the parts in a decent sized box you can actually cause the spray to circulate inside reaching areas that you couldn't spray directly. Also its nice to be able to set it all down and spray.

This is what it looks like after a few short sprays. I will have to flip them so that I can get the other side. Aside from having to flip the pieces. The major drawback to this method is that you will have to glue assemble the model after you prime it and you will be tempted to base coat it before assembly. Not a bad idea, but i will cover that painting later.
All in all which method you choose is up to you. for the most part you are only limited by the mood that suits you at the time. Some models may necessitate to them fully assembled. And a few will be best primed in pieces. but that is up to you.

 Tune in next time for the base coat. When I will be discussing basic color choices, the color scheme I chose, indispensable paints, brushes and what matte medium is.