Sorry about the delay for an update. I ran into some difficulty getting the pictures ready for editing. The process takes an incredible amount of time, as my computer doesn't have a built in memory card reader and I didn't get the USB cable with the camera I borrowed. Transferring the images aside, it can take 3-6 hours for selection and editing. Then there is the composition of the blog and general formatting of the text and positioning of those pictures that do so much to illustrate what it is that I am talking about. That said I was also invited to spend the night at my girlfriend's place where I don't have a Windows machine to work on. Yes, I am a PC and my girlfriend is a Mac. Moving on. So now I am back, sort of, and typed out this post to tide you over until we get some more pictures for the next part. Which, of course, deals with the fun and excitement of priming your models. I will also cover two of the ways to approach the primer and painting process before moving on to the actual painting itself.
So to satiate your modeling appetite for the moment. Here is a brief on primer.
There are two schools of thought on how to prepare your models for primer.
One set believes that you should assemble and glue your model together and then glue to the base before priming. This is a space efficient way of doing things. As you only have to hold one object in front of the can. It does, however, have its draw backs in the form of primer shadows. These are the areas where a part, say an arm, covers another part. Like the torso. I will show you pictures later.
The other school of thought on the matter, believes in the simplicity of priming your model in pieces. Not necessarily un-assembled, as the process is made easier with a little sub assembly. This way you avoid the afore mentioned shadows. Get near perfect coverage, and have an easier time painting your model. There are drawbacks. Hah, you didn't think that this is was a perfect method, did you? If you use this method you get a Near perfect coverage of primer. In fact you get a better coverage on all of your parts than the fully assembled model. This means that you would need to carefully plan how to assemble and pose your model and stick tape to the relevant contact areas. I will cover that in greater detail in the next entry. Also there is the painting aspect. On a fully assembled model you get a fairly straight forward view of where shadows fall and where to put your high lights. With this method, you would have an easier time applying the base coat i.e. the basic colors. You would have to assemble and glue your model together to apply the finishing touches such as shading and highlights. Needless to say, or perhaps needed to mention. This is a very time consuming method. And yes, the pros use this method. I have observed Privateer's own Ron Cruzie and Matt Di Pietro paint using this method. Pictures to come in the next post.
All this is well and good but where are the pics? Well here are two:
This is what i see out the window right now.
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